Adding BMM guides to wiki

docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/MX5-Miata/Miata-36T-Trigger.md

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+# Miata 36T Trigger Wheel Installation
+
+A trigger wheel with more teeth on the crankshaft provides a finer resolution of the crankshaft position signal. This finer resolution enhances timing control, reduces signal noise and vibration, and improves performance, especially at high RPM. Overall, it contributes to better engine stability and drivability, making it particularly beneficial in high-performance or racing scenarios.
+
+For Miatas, there are a range of upgraded trigger wheels available, most with 35 or 34 teeth referred to as a 36-1T or 36-2T trigger wheel. The triggers nominally have 36 teeth and either one or two teeth are removed so the crank position sensor will receive a signal when the crank has completed a full rotation.
+
+The trigger wheel recommended for BMM ECUs is the 1999-2001 Mazda Protege 36-1 Trigger Wheel (part # ZM0111408). This trigger wheel is compatible with the stock crankshaft pulley and a Fluiddampr crankshaft pulley. If using an ATI damper, you must purchase a compatible trigger wheel.
+
+## Installation
+
+Before completing this installation it is recommended to have the car running on a BMM ECU with the stock trigger wheel. This way, only a few parameters in the tune need to be changed to get the car working with this part.
+
+### Disconnect the Battery
+
+Ensure the engine is off and disconnect the battery for safety.
+
+### Remove Engine Belts
+
+Remove the engine belts obstructing access to the crankshaft pulley. Typically, there are two belts: the accessory belt which drives the power steering and A/C and the alternator belt which also drives the water pump. The belt tensioners are respectively located on the power steering pump (top right on the engine from the front) and the alternater (bottom left). With the belts removed, you should have clear access to the crankshaft pulley.
+
+### Rotate Engine to Top Dead Center (TDC)
+
+Using a 21mm socket on the bolt in the centre of the crank pully, rotate the engine clockwise until the marks on the crank pulley line up with the timing marks on the timing belt cover.
+
+### Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
+
+Remove the crankshaft pulley by undoing the four 10mm bolts on the front. The large centre bolt doesn't need to be removed if using the stock or a Fluiddampr pulley. An ATI damper will require removal of the cranshaft bolt to install so consult their installation manual if required. Behind the pulley should be the OEM trigger wheel. Go ahead and remove it, put it in the bin or use it as a beer coaster.
+
+### Install the New Trigger Wheel
+
+The new trigger wheel can go on to the engine in two orientations, correctly and backwards. To radially allign the trigger wheel, there is a dowel pin on the crank which slots into a hole in the trigger wheel. At TDC, the dowel pin should be vertical or at the 12 o'clock position. The correct orientation is to put the trigger wheel on, as per the diagrams below, with the centre recessed part of the trigger pointing towards the crank, the white dot facing outwards and the missing tooth at approximately the 7 o'clock position when the engine is at TDC and the dowel pin is vertical. The trigger wheel is the wrong way around if the teeth are further fowards of the engine than the centre reccess, the white dot is facing towards the engine, or the missing tooth is at the 5 o'clock position at engine TDC.
+
+If installing an ATI damper and trigger wheel or a Fluiddampr, consult the manual as the installation has several additional steps which include bolting the trigger wheel to the aftermarket crankshaft pulley damper. In the case of a Fluiddampr, the orientation of the Mazda 323 trigger wheel will be identical to installaton onto a stock pulley.
+
+### Re-Install Crank Pulley and Adjust Crank Sensor
+
+Re-install the crank pulley and the four 10mm bolts (109-151 inch/lbs 13-17 Nm). Check the clearance betweek the crank sensor and the tip of a tooth on the timing wheel, there should be a 0.5-1.5 mm or 0.020-0.059 inch gap between the tooth and the sensor. If you later come up with trigger errors, this gap may need to be reduced. To reduce the gap, loosen the 10mm bolt holding the crank sensor and wiggle it to the desired position.
+
+### Re-Install Belts and Connect Battery
+
+Re-install the accessory and alternator belts checking they are suitably tight. Now connect the battery back to the car. The mechanical installation is now complete and it's time to boot up the computer.
+
+## TunerStudio Settings
+
+In the "Trigger" menu under the Base Engine tab, change the trigger type to 36/1 and the trigger angle advance to 75 degrees.
+
+If using a 36-2 trigger wheel instead, the first setting would be 36/2 and the advance will likely be different so check with the manufacutrer. In the case of a 36-2T trigger wheel for an ATI damper, the advance angle should be around 148 degrees.
+
+These settings will likely get the car started with the Mazda 323 timing wheel however the trigger angle advance may need to be iterated to perfectly match the timing on your car. To check or set the base timing, set the timing to fixed in TunerStudio and use a timing light on the crank to measure the timing. If the timing is not 10 degrees BTDC, iterate the trigger angle advance in TS until it is spot on. This is covered in "Set Base Timing" within the Miata Quick Start Guide.
+
+Now after ensuring your timing is reverted back to dynamic in TS, the installation should now be complete!

docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/MX5-Miata/Miata-COP-Conversion.md

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+# Miata Coil On Plug Conversion
+
+Converting your Miata to run a coil on plug (COP) ignition setup is a great engine upgrade for those with forced induction or high-performance engines. Offering a stronger spark and improved reliability, coil-on-plug technology outperforms the coil packs of the 1990s and early 2000s Miatas. It also eliminates the need for ignition wire replacements and reduces electrical interference, making it a more robust and appealing option in automotive applications.
+
+This guide will discuss the steps to convert your stock NA or NB Miata ignition system to COP. 
+
+## Parts Required
+
+### Ignition Coils and Connectors
+
+Toyota and Audi/VW ignition coils are the most common. For Toyota coils, ones off a 1ZZ engine will work as well as many other variants. Some part numbers for Toyota coils are: 90080-19015, 90919-02239, 90080-19023, 90919-02234. The part number for the coil connector is: 90980-11885.
+
+For Audi coils, the ones used are referred to as R8 coils as they are used on the Audi R8 (as well as most other Audi's and some VWs). The most common part number is: 06E905115G however there are also many variants that will work depending which brand of "R8 coil" you want and how much you want to spend. The part number for the R8 coil connector is: 1J0973724.
+
+Both of these ignition coils work and both have their distinct advantages. The R8 coils securely clip onto the spark plugs however they protrude further from the spark plug holes than stock so usually require a form of spacer to keep them from wiggling around. The Toyota ones sit flusher however they also require a bracket for their mounting bolt to secure them in place. For the NA6 and earlier NA8 cars, the tachometer takes a signal from the ignition coils, only the Toyota coils have this pin. You can run R8 coils on these cars however your tachometer will not work unless you wire it directly to the ECU.
+
+### Car Wiring Harness Connectors
+
+If you wish to solder directly to the harness, you can ignore this however those wishing for a more elegant solution prefer to clip their COP harness onto the existing vehicle harness. 
+
+For a 1.6L, this is more difficult and it is either recommended to buy a spare igniter to take apart or simply wire directly into the harness. 
+For the other NA and NB Miatas utilizing a coil pack on the back of the valve cover, a compatible connector part number is: 6098-0144.
+
+### Other Components
+
+- 10,000uF capacitor to be installed between the 12V and GND which helps to filter electrical noise however this is not strictly necessary.
+- 18-22 AWG wire to help reduce the internal resistance and carry the power to drive the coils.
+- Wiring harness or electrical tape to wrap over the harness
+- Crimping tool
+- Soldering equipment
+- Heat shrink
+- Wire strippers
+- Wiring
+- The wiring diagrams for each model NA/NB is shown below.
+
+#### NA6 (1.6L)
+
+#### NA8 94-95 (1.8L)
+
+#### NA8 95+ /NB1 (1.8L)
+
+## Toyota Coil Pinout
+
+From left to right on the coil is the ground, ECU signal, tachometer signal, and 12V. For later NA8 and NB1 Miatas, the tachometer signal does not need to be wired up.
+
+## R8 Coil Pinout
+
+From left to right on the coil is the ground, ECU signal, ground, and 12V. The two grounds can be connected together. Note that the R8 coils have no tachometer signal meaning that on NA6 and early NA8 cars, the tachometer will need to get its signal from the ECU. Later NA8s and NB1s do not have this issue.
+
+## COP Harness
+
+To make the neatest harness, cut the wires to length with the coils installed in the car in their desired orientations. Leave a small amount of excess so there is no tension on the wiring harness and room in case a wire needs to be re-stripped. Make sure to cover each exposed solder joint with electrical tape or heat shrink then go over the entire harness with tape to protect it. It is recommended to check your harness wiring several times for shorts or mistakes before powering on the car.
+
+## Coil Mounts
+
+For both coils, there are a range of third-party suppliers selling mounting brackets. If you wish to DIY a mount, they can be made relatively inexpensively using aluminum or 3D printed spacers (ABS or other high temperature plastics are recommended).
+
+## ECU Dwell Time Setup
+
+The dwell times need to be modified in TunerStudio before starting the car with the new COPs. Recommended safe dwell settings are shown below for both Toyota and R8 COPs. Note that dwell times can vary significantly between different ignition coils and it is recommended to do some additional research on your specific coil. The longer the dwell time, the longer the coil charges for and the stronger the spark. Too little dwell will result in a weak spark and too much dwell can draw an excessive amount of current, possibly melting the coil.

docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/MX5-Miata/Miata-VVT.md

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+# Miata VVT Setup and Tuning
+
+Tuning the NB2 BP-Z3/BP-VE VVT motor can be a daunting task. This guide will detail the process for configuring and tuning the VVT for an NB2 VVT motor using a BMM ECU. 
+
+## Required Equipment
+
+Vehicle running an NB2 VVT motor
+Access to a dyno or a safe location to tune the vehicle using Virtual Dyno. An actual dyno is preferable to virtual dyno due to the accuracy of readings and ability to safely vary the operating point of the engine.
+Laptop with TunerStudio, MegaLog Viewer and optionally Virtual Dyno installed.
+Initial TunerStudio Configuration
+Open TunerStudio and open the "VVT Configuration and PID" menu under the advanced tab. Going down the settings in this menu first is the activation delay. This is the initial delay when the car is started before the VVT is enabled. A setting of 1000-5000ms (1-5s) should be suitable here to give the engine enough time to build oil pressure before enabling the VVT.
+
+The "Do not control below RPM" setting or activation RPM disables VVT until the engine RPM exceeds this value. Ideally set it about at 100-200 RPM or so above your idle RPM to keep it disabled during idle. This will simplify the idle tuning as the engine torque from the VVT changing can lead to a fluctuating idle.
+
+For the VVT solenoid banks, an NB2 motor only has VVT on the intake so select the pin labelled as "VVT" for the "VVT solenoid bank 1 intake" setting.
+
+On the right side of the menu are the PID control options. If you are new to PID tuning, plenty of guides exist detailing how it works. This video by RCModelReviews details how PIDs work on a basic level.
+
+Pictured below are some reasonable default settings however it is still recommended to configure the settings yourself as settings can vary from car to car.
+
+## VVT Offset Setting
+
+Before configuring the VVT PID, the basic VVT angle offset needs to be configured. This is to calibrate what the ECU thinks is 0 degrees VVT angle to the actual VVT angle on the car, similar to setting the base timing. This is different to the offset in the PID control menu.  Open the "Trigger" menu under the "Base Engine" tab and locate the "VVT offset bank 1 intake(value)" setting. In the engine bay, unplug the VVT solenoid highlighted in the image below:
+
+ Right click one of the gauges on the background of TunerStudio and under VVT, change it to "VVT bank 1 intake vvtPositionB1IGauge". This will show a live reading of the detected VVT position on the car. 
+
+Start the car with the solenoid unplugged and read the VVT position on the gauge. Change the "VVT offset bank 1 intake(value)" setting until the VVT position reads 0. The VVT angle is now calibrated and you can shut off the car and plug the solenoid back in. Your offset should be similar to that shown below:
+
+## PID Tuning VVT Settings
+
+Under the PID settings the offset is the VVT solenoid duty cycle offset. Basically, the solenoid will only activate if it is pulsed above a threshold duty cycle and the PID controller needs to know what duty cycle this occurs. PID tuning can be a tedious process and it is recommended to outsource it to a professional if you are not confident.
+
+To tune the offset, open the "VVT Closed Loop Target" table and set every cell to a constant value such as 10 degrees. Set the P gain to 1. Right click one of the gauges on the background of TS and under VVT, change it to "VVT bank 1 intake - vvtPositionB1IGauge". This will show a live reading of the detected VVT position on the car.
+
+Start with an offset value of e.g. 10. Start the car and hold the engine RPM at a constant value above the threshold RPM and observe the VVT position gauge. If the gauge does not change, increase the offset by 5-10 and repeat until you find the minimum offset required for the gauge to change VVT position. Note that the actual VVT position won't be correct yet as the PID controller still needs to be set up. A value in the range of 30-40 is expected.
+
+Next is the PID tuning. This step can take a while and is important to do thoroughly to ensure that the VVT can reach its target angles quickly and without overshooting significantly. The PID tuning is best done on a dyno or with a mate to drive the car whilst you tune it. Alternatively you can take a driving datalog, analyse it in MegaLogViewer, revise the PID settings and take another driving log. This method would be very time consuming and the first two are recommended.
+
+To tune the P, I, and D settings you can either start from scratch or work from other users values to refine them. Below are some PID values you can work from if you wish. The process of tuning the PIDs is to put various angle targets in the VVT intake target table at different engine loads and RPM and to move the engine around between them. As the VVT target changes, the PID loop will activate to attempt to reach the new target. By watching the response of how quickly and with how much overshoot the controller reaches the target, the PID controller can be tuned. 
+
+An example on the dyno this might look like having all VVT target cells below 1500 RPM at 0 and above that at 20 degrees. In the "diagnostics and high speed loggers" tab you can set one graph to be the VVT position and the other as the VVT target as shown below:
+
+Next, rev and hold the engine up to e.g. 2000 RPM and watch how quickly the VVT position rises to match the VVT target. If the position overshoots, decrease P or increase D, vice versa if it undershoots. If the position slowly drifts from 20 degrees, you would increase the I gain. The PID settings would be varied until the VVT position quickly rises or falls to and VVT target changes without much over or undershoot. To properly optimise the PID tune, it is recommended to repeat a similar tuning process with lots of VVT angles.
+
+Once the VVT is PID tuned, the VVT target table can be tuned.
+
+## VVT Target Angle Tuning
+
+Tuning the VVT angle is where the power gains are made. At this point the VVT should be fully set up and PID tuned to quickly reach the target position. If you cannot be bothered tuning the VVT angle, copying another users settings may yield decent results provided they have done the proper tuning however there will always be slight variances from car to car. A reasonable target table example is shown below:
+
+The target angle is tuned in two sections, ramp run tuning and steady state tuning. Ramp runs are used to tune the VVT at maximum throttle and steady state tuning is used to tune the angles for partial throttle applications when the engine isn't fully loaded. This tuning is best done on a dyno for the best accuracy.
+
+To tune the ramp run, set the entire VVT target table to 0 and perform a run. Save this run and do another, this time incrementing the whole VVT target table angle by 5-10 degrees depending how many dyno pulls you want to do. Repeat this process until the maximum VVT angle of 44 degrees is reached. Now load up all of the dyno runs and overlay them on top of each other. There will be points across these graphs where the torque from one VVT angle rises above the others. Power can be used as well but it is easier to do the tuning using the torque plots. For a given RPM range, take the VVT angle with the highest torque and put that into the maximum load section of the VVT target table. Repeat this for every RPM range where a different VVT angle yields a higher engine torque until the maximum load row of the table is populated. An example ramp run dyno graph is shown below where there are several "dyno runs" at different VVT angles. The yellow lines indicate the crossover points where a certain VVT angle has the most torque. Simply set the highest torque producing VVT angle in the chart for a given RPM range to that in the target table.
+
+If you have some way of maintaining a constant throttle position below 100% such as a chock under the pedal (on the dyno only!!!) or limiting the maximum throttle body travel, ramp runs can be used to efficiently populate the whole VVT table for conditions where the engine isn't fully loaded.
+
+To steady state tune on a dyno, the dyno will hold the engine at a specific RPM and load so you can vary the VVT angle in real time to see which angle has the highest torque. You then move to another cell and repeat this to tune the lower engine load sections of the VVT target table. To save time, it is possible go along a row tuning every second cell then interpolating between them. The downsides to steady state tuning is the higher load and RPM will quickly heat up the engine so it is crucial to monitor the temperature. This method also takes quite a lot of time but will yield precise results as the angle can be varied in small increments as the torque is measured instantaneously. 
+
+Road tuning with steady state is not possible as there is no way to measure the torque of the engine as the car sits at a specific load and RPM.