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## How To Pick A (Pattern) Size
On patterns, you will usually see at least one of the following:
### 1. Body Measurement Chart
This are the body measurements used to draft the pattern (i.e. what the pattern-maker had in mind)
### 2. Finished Garment Measurements
I personally think these are easier to reference, as it will allow you to pick a size based on your fit preferences. Do remember that you need to take ease into account.
- ***Wearing Ease*** — Room in the garment to make it comfortable to move around in. E.g. a fitted pencil dress will be slightly bigger than your actual body.
- ***Design Ease*** — Fullness added for design reasons. E.g. an oversized shirt will have more design ease than a tailored shirt.
- ***Negative Ease*** — For stretch (often knit) fabrics, the finished garment measurements will be smaller than your body, and that's ok!

### Picking a Size:
> *Note: Generally, when picking a size, prioritise the most relevant measurement (which will usually be the widest part of that body section). e.g. hip measurement for skirts/shorts/trousers, chest measurement for tops, shoulder and chest measurements for jackets*
- https://thefoldline.com/2016/01/30/the-sewing-pattern-tutorials-2-sizing-charts-and-fitted-measurements/
### Blending Between Sizes
> *Aka what you can do if your measurements put you in multiple sizes, and it's a fitted garment (i.e. the design ease won't accommodate sufficiently for your body).
 - https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2018/09/24/how-to-blend-pattern-sizes
 - https://inthefolds.com/blog/2015/8/27/6-grading-between-multiple-sizes
 - https://fridaypatterncompany.com/blogs/blog/how-to-grade-between-and-combine-pattern-sizes

**Final Reminder:**
> *Pattern sizes also don't correspond to modern mass-manufactured clothing sizes, which are made-up and not consistent anyway. Always pick pattern size based on your measurements.
> ALSO: It's entirely normal not to match the 'standard' measurements, or fall between multiple sizes :)*